Let’s talk for a hot sec about the ridiculous whirlwind which has been the past several days.
On our day off, another counselor and I went to see the Ghandi Ashram. I never realized how much Ghandi was against Indians learning the English language (he wanted to preserve and lift up India as a powerful culture for peace in its own right, not because of Westernization). The house is on the river, which is mostly dry at this point. The make-shift dwellings of Ahmedabad’s poorest citizens line the banks; a combination of clothing and tattered blankets provide a patch of shade from the sun, which beats down through the thick smog. The smell of burning wood hangs in the air constantly, and a sudden shift in the wind can easily whip you in the face with sand and ash. Ghandi dreamed of his country leading the world by constantly demonstrating peace. He is to many the father of India. But even Ghandi knew that he was but one man, and the wounds within India itself were far from being healed in his lifetime.
What constantly strikes me about this country is its perplexing social stratification. India is considered to be a developing country. We run our camp from one of India’s most prestigious universities, but just outside the gates people are sleeping on carts or on the sidewalk itself. They hang their few possessions, usually a change of clothes and a blanket, on strings strung on the walls of the university itself. Naked children crouch in the shade while their older siblings are sent as beggars to the nearby shops. As the only people with white skin for miles around, we are an immediate spectacle. Locals take pictures of us (and ask to take pictures with us, too, sometimes handing us their children to hold in the process). The beggar children pick us as easy targets. They come and hold trinkets and key chains in our faces, hoping for a little cash. But we have been strictly warned to not give anything to these children. To give them anything will probably put them in danger as the other children will likely fight over anything valuable. If you give one child anything, twenty more of them will surround you within seconds. What’s more is that any money you may give a child will not even go to help that child – it goes straight back to their parents. So we must turn a blind eye to them, something which is certainly not in my nature. Every child I see I want to scoop up and take home with me… I want to be able to give them clothes and a decent place to sleep and medicine – things which they see every day in Ahmedabad and have no way of getting.
This kind of poverty is not relegated to any section of town. It stares right into the faces of some of India’s wealthiest people every single day. It sleeps outside mansions, renowned medical facilities, and luxury spas. The blatant disparity remains this way much in part because of the lingering attitudes of the caste system. Such a social system does not exist on paper, but is very much still alive in India. The shade of your skin, your family, and your connections (all demonstrative of caste) are everything. In the Sunday newspaper is a “Matrimonials” section, which primarily contains ads for “Wanted Brides” and “Wanted Grooms.” The ads are divided by caste, community, nationality, religion and language.
Even within our small operation of 95 students we see incredible disparity of wealth. About 20 of our students come to us from Foundation schools (schools which have taken children from the street to give them an education, food, and shelter) and are fully sponsored to attend this program. The rest of the students come to us from India’s most privileged families. So far there have been very few if any real problems because of this disparity, but the difference between the general attitudes and behaviors of the haves and have-nots are obvious.
I had the unique cultural experience of rushing one of our students to the hospital via rickshaw after she had a heat stroke. She stayed for two days, and the counselors took turns keeping our girl company. Unfortunately, very few people at the hospital spoke English. Our patient had less idea what was going on around her than we did, as she only spoke three languages from her state in another part of the country (here they speak Hindi and Gujurati). Hospital staff flurried around us, placing IVs and administering shots and speaking to us as if we could understand what in the world was happening. They took our girl to the ICU (which seemed a little overdramatic). It is custom to take one’s shoes off before entering hospital rooms, so I sat with her, barefoot and mildly terrified for several hours. If I ever get sick enough for a hospital visit, fly me home or over to Sweden.
Today is Sunday, and the kids go home on Saturday. The staff as a whole is pretty burned out (especially the people whose bodies have not taken well to the food – I haven’t had any issues with that so far). You should see the way we all react to McDonald’s French fries or peanut butter. Working this program in India has been a wild rollercoaster, and often it feels like our train car has been flying through the air without rails. I will continue to enjoy my time here, but will be very happy to have my feet find the ground again. One more week!
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Monday, May 24, 2010
Chalo, chalo!
Out of all the Hindi words and phrases thrown at me thus far, चलो or "chalo" is the only one that has stuck. It means "Let's go!" Also, आलू or "aloo" means potato.
And miracle of miracles, we are getting some relief from the aga ki bhavana (the title of this blog, which means "spirit of fire"). That's right friends, on Sunday we moved all 95 students and 8 counselors out of the concrete hotbed that is the dormitories into air-conditioned rooms across campus. Perhaps it's the fact that Ahmedabad is having its hottest heat wave since 1901 and nine people in the city actually died because of the heat that has caused the powers that be to move everyone into a more habitable living space. Morale has increased significantly, and I have actually been able to sleep through the night for the first time since arriving in India.
On Saturday we had the entire camp divide into teams for a campus-wide photo scavenger hunt. Whilst searching for a mango and a green bird, we happened upon two of our monkey friends. I got several great pics from justa few feet away, much to the amusement of my girls. "You don't have monkeys in America?" At this I can only laugh and say, "We do, but not roaming around our cities!" Our team was far from winning the scavenger hunt, but we did have a good time -- despairing at finding a green bird, I grabbed some palm fronds and acted like one. Ohh, the things I'll do for my students...
With all of the moving, the constant red tape, schedule adjustment, and working out of kinks that come with doing an international program, the staff is absolutely exhausted. I am incredibly thankful to be working with such a spirited team -- the constant energy and positive can-do attitude makes all the difference. Although now that we all have our own air-conditioned rooms, we don't spend nearly as much time together. Just the same, I think this whole India experience has fused us all together so tightly that we will all be pretty disoriented coming back to the States and not seeing each other every day. It's strange to think that we only arrived two weeks ago. It feels like we have been here forever (in a good way).
It's time for me to take a nap and relish my day off for the week. Mmmm, day off...
And miracle of miracles, we are getting some relief from the aga ki bhavana (the title of this blog, which means "spirit of fire"). That's right friends, on Sunday we moved all 95 students and 8 counselors out of the concrete hotbed that is the dormitories into air-conditioned rooms across campus. Perhaps it's the fact that Ahmedabad is having its hottest heat wave since 1901 and nine people in the city actually died because of the heat that has caused the powers that be to move everyone into a more habitable living space. Morale has increased significantly, and I have actually been able to sleep through the night for the first time since arriving in India.
On Saturday we had the entire camp divide into teams for a campus-wide photo scavenger hunt. Whilst searching for a mango and a green bird, we happened upon two of our monkey friends. I got several great pics from justa few feet away, much to the amusement of my girls. "You don't have monkeys in America?" At this I can only laugh and say, "We do, but not roaming around our cities!" Our team was far from winning the scavenger hunt, but we did have a good time -- despairing at finding a green bird, I grabbed some palm fronds and acted like one. Ohh, the things I'll do for my students...
With all of the moving, the constant red tape, schedule adjustment, and working out of kinks that come with doing an international program, the staff is absolutely exhausted. I am incredibly thankful to be working with such a spirited team -- the constant energy and positive can-do attitude makes all the difference. Although now that we all have our own air-conditioned rooms, we don't spend nearly as much time together. Just the same, I think this whole India experience has fused us all together so tightly that we will all be pretty disoriented coming back to the States and not seeing each other every day. It's strange to think that we only arrived two weeks ago. It feels like we have been here forever (in a good way).
It's time for me to take a nap and relish my day off for the week. Mmmm, day off...
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Indian Soap Operas
If you ever thought American soap operas were melodramatic, you are in for a real treat. On several occasions the counselors have had the opportunity to catch a few episodes of some Indian soap operas. Nevermind the small obstacle that we don't speak Hindi -- there is very little dialogue. In fact most of a 30 minute episode consists of a close-up of every character's face (and there are at least 7 characters in every scene) for every two words uttered. Indian television is very muted as far as content goes, so any portrayal of violence usually resembles that of a comic book strip. One character just turned around and suddenly three men were on the ground. And if you have never watched a Bollywood film, get yourself down to video store and gear up for 2 to 3 hours of love triangles and family meddling interspersed with random Indian song and dance.
As for what's happening here at camp...the kids are here! You have never met such an awesome group of students. After an exhausting Arrival Day with only a few kinks, everyone is settling in nicely. I think we may all even be adapting to the heat. Last night was our first day of evening activities. I ran one of my favorite staples: improv games. I was hesitant to believe that I could occupy these kids for three hours this way, but it actually turned out really well; the feedback reported to counselors has all been very positive!
With classes having started, the counselors have a little bit more time to catch their breath. Today a few of us took a rickshaw down to the store to stockpile some personal supplies. Each of the ladies bought a Sari, the traditional garment worn by Hindu women in India (and a few other places in the world, too!) I spent awhile this afternoon looking up how to wear mine, and I think I've got it. I kind of just want to wear it, but I can't decide if that might make people here stare any more than they already do here. The Americans really stick out like a sore thumb -- add on our camp neon orange and green lanyards, you might as well put flashing lights on us.
I have been told that tonight the dining hall is serving Chinese food. Indian Chinese food is supposed to be quite good, so I am very excited! Not to mention that as much as I love Indian food, there is only so much curry one can take. We are spoiled on variety in the States. I may have to snag some McDonald's on my day off. It's not something I ever eat at home, but I have been told that McDonald's here is actually much better than in America. Go figure.
Sometime during the term one of our dear counselors insists upon hugging an elephant. Pictures will be entirely necessary. I also saw that huge monkey again on campus while I was showing my girls around for the first time. Alas! I was once again caught without a camera. I swear that he is watching me, and it is a constant concern that I am going to wake up with this monkey on my balcony one night. My balcony door also tends to blow open during the night, so he could even creep into my bed. I'm just a tad thrilled/terrified by that thought.
P.S. Thursday's high is 46 C. That's like...a million degrees. Seriously, my brain has melted a bit more by the end of each day.
As for what's happening here at camp...the kids are here! You have never met such an awesome group of students. After an exhausting Arrival Day with only a few kinks, everyone is settling in nicely. I think we may all even be adapting to the heat. Last night was our first day of evening activities. I ran one of my favorite staples: improv games. I was hesitant to believe that I could occupy these kids for three hours this way, but it actually turned out really well; the feedback reported to counselors has all been very positive!
With classes having started, the counselors have a little bit more time to catch their breath. Today a few of us took a rickshaw down to the store to stockpile some personal supplies. Each of the ladies bought a Sari, the traditional garment worn by Hindu women in India (and a few other places in the world, too!) I spent awhile this afternoon looking up how to wear mine, and I think I've got it. I kind of just want to wear it, but I can't decide if that might make people here stare any more than they already do here. The Americans really stick out like a sore thumb -- add on our camp neon orange and green lanyards, you might as well put flashing lights on us.
I have been told that tonight the dining hall is serving Chinese food. Indian Chinese food is supposed to be quite good, so I am very excited! Not to mention that as much as I love Indian food, there is only so much curry one can take. We are spoiled on variety in the States. I may have to snag some McDonald's on my day off. It's not something I ever eat at home, but I have been told that McDonald's here is actually much better than in America. Go figure.
Sometime during the term one of our dear counselors insists upon hugging an elephant. Pictures will be entirely necessary. I also saw that huge monkey again on campus while I was showing my girls around for the first time. Alas! I was once again caught without a camera. I swear that he is watching me, and it is a constant concern that I am going to wake up with this monkey on my balcony one night. My balcony door also tends to blow open during the night, so he could even creep into my bed. I'm just a tad thrilled/terrified by that thought.
P.S. Thursday's high is 46 C. That's like...a million degrees. Seriously, my brain has melted a bit more by the end of each day.
Friday, May 14, 2010
A Monkey and a Rickshaw Ride
MONKEY! That’s right friends, yesterday on my walk back to the dorm a monkey darted across my path, jumping off a ledge into the courtyard below. I couldn’t help but peer around the stone steps when I reached the bottom to make sure that this monkey was not going to pull a surprise attack. I didn’t see it again, so I went on to my dorm, still wondering if I had in fact seen this rather large, white/gray monkey. The rest of the residential counselors say that this means a monkey is my “animal spirit.” I have the spirit of a monkey, right?
Spotting a monkey wasn’t the only interesting experience yesterday. The staff hired cars and rickshaws to take us to the mall for some necessities like power adapters. I had taken out a small amount of rupees (900
, which is roughly $19) on our campus tour that morning (pictures of the campus forthcoming!) We went through several layers of security, first to enter the mall, and then again to enter and exit the bargain store inside. I like to try the different potato chip flavors in each country, so I picked up a small bag of Lime and Masala flavored chips. I was not a fan. Having just had delicious masala the day before in the dining hall, why would I want this cheapened chip flavor? No no, I have enough delicious Indian food in my life right now to keep me happy. I put the uneaten bag of chips away and continued to wait with the rest of my group in the center of the mall. As a primarily white group (though we do have a variety of ethnicities in our group, including Indian), we drew a lot of attention. Indians don’t seem to mind blatant staring. The mall had several tiers around an enclosed courtyard. Indians on each balcony level stared and snapped pictures of our group as we sat waiting for our ride back to campus.
Today held its own adventures. Wanting to shop for Indian fabric and jewelry from Day 1, a few of us set out for our first unguided journey into town. We hired a rickshaw to take us to RelianceMart, a Wal-Mart-like store which was next to a mall and an open bazaar. On the way one of the rickshaws hit a bike and nearly hit a car – Ruchie screamed at the near car-collision and the driver teased her for the rest of the trip (and we think added in some more dramatic stops and near-misses just for his own amusement). In case you didn’t believe me before, I’ll emphasize it again: Indian traffic is complete chaos. One of our Indian instructors has challenged the RCs to walk across one of the roads in front of campus; he calls it “Fear Factor India.” He says that the key to staying alive when walking across the road is to go at a steady pace. For the time being I think rickshaws risk our lives enough. After all, if we die, who is going to look after the kids? And for those of you unable to picture what a rickshaw is...
Spotting a monkey wasn’t the only interesting experience yesterday. The staff hired cars and rickshaws to take us to the mall for some necessities like power adapters. I had taken out a small amount of rupees (900
, which is roughly $19) on our campus tour that morning (pictures of the campus forthcoming!) We went through several layers of security, first to enter the mall, and then again to enter and exit the bargain store inside. I like to try the different potato chip flavors in each country, so I picked up a small bag of Lime and Masala flavored chips. I was not a fan. Having just had delicious masala the day before in the dining hall, why would I want this cheapened chip flavor? No no, I have enough delicious Indian food in my life right now to keep me happy. I put the uneaten bag of chips away and continued to wait with the rest of my group in the center of the mall. As a primarily white group (though we do have a variety of ethnicities in our group, including Indian), we drew a lot of attention. Indians don’t seem to mind blatant staring. The mall had several tiers around an enclosed courtyard. Indians on each balcony level stared and snapped pictures of our group as we sat waiting for our ride back to campus.Today held its own adventures. Wanting to shop for Indian fabric and jewelry from Day 1, a few of us set out for our first unguided journey into town. We hired a rickshaw to take us to RelianceMart, a Wal-Mart-like store which was next to a mall and an open bazaar. On the way one of the rickshaws hit a bike and nearly hit a car – Ruchie screamed at the near car-collision and the driver teased her for the rest of the trip (and we think added in some more dramatic stops and near-misses just for his own amusement). In case you didn’t believe me before, I’ll emphasize it again: Indian traffic is complete chaos. One of our Indian instructors has challenged the RCs to walk across one of the roads in front of campus; he calls it “Fear Factor India.” He says that the key to staying alive when walking across the road is to go at a steady pace. For the time being I think rickshaws risk our lives enough. After all, if we die, who is going to look after the kids? And for those of you unable to picture what a rickshaw is...
The latter half of the day was devoted to training and prep for arrival day. The residential staff is in good shape in terms of getting everything together – now we just need to choose themes and make some door decorations. The RCs made student groups and received student files to peruse, as well. Reading about my girls is so exciting – I can’t wait to meet them! It looks like a really great group. Just one more day and the kids will be here! Until then, I’m keeping my eyes peeled for any more monkey sightings.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Feelin Hot Hot Hot!
We have landed safely in Ahmedabad with very little delay along the way (though our friends going through Heathrow will not arrive for another five hours or so...thanks a lot, Iceland).
The staff is still pretty disoriented, and the culture shock did not ease matters any this morning. Driving in India is like playing a real-life version of MarioKart on steroids. The paint indicating lane division on the roads is either worn away or non-existent -- not that it matters. Indians drive on whichever part of the pavement they please. They must do so to avoid the many bicycles, rickshaws (small three-wheeled motor-powered cabs), pedestrians, dogs, cows, and even camels that flit about. I swear our taxi driver nearly plowed over numerous people this morning. Let's just say that a powerful car horn is an absolute necessity to driving in India.
The time difference here is 9 1/2 hours head of Eastern Standard Time (I know, I thought the half was weird, too). When we stepped out of the airport this morning around 6am it was already around 84 F. The thermometer climbs with the sun -- this afternoon should top out around 113. To make sure that we roast, our dorms have no air-conditioning. I figure if I can survive a Minnesota winter then an Indian summer should be the test of my other extreme.
Hopefully we will all be adjusted to the heat, the time change, and the campus by the time the students arrive this weekend. The buildings are primarily made of plain stone, but no fear, the residential staff is already brainstorming ways to make this place more cheery with the help of our students. We have three small buildings, each with their own courtyard, which surround a small quad-like area. Elizabeth has suggested that each dorm invent a flag to hang, and then we can cover our balconies with banners. So far I am a fan, though I admittedly am rather afraid that the sun will melt off any paint...
So far so good with the food, but then again I have only had a small breakfast in the dining hall. I have PB&J to back me up just in case I pine for a good old American classic. As some of you know, I thoroughly enjoy trying Coca-Cola in every country I visit. I added Qatar to the list (which is right next to Saudi Arabia)...it is surprisingly sweet! Italy still takes 1st place in the International Coca-Cola taste test, though. I will update when I try Indian Coke!
For now I'm off to check out the air-conditioned lounge and avoid the zombie cat which stalks around campus.
The staff is still pretty disoriented, and the culture shock did not ease matters any this morning. Driving in India is like playing a real-life version of MarioKart on steroids. The paint indicating lane division on the roads is either worn away or non-existent -- not that it matters. Indians drive on whichever part of the pavement they please. They must do so to avoid the many bicycles, rickshaws (small three-wheeled motor-powered cabs), pedestrians, dogs, cows, and even camels that flit about. I swear our taxi driver nearly plowed over numerous people this morning. Let's just say that a powerful car horn is an absolute necessity to driving in India.
The time difference here is 9 1/2 hours head of Eastern Standard Time (I know, I thought the half was weird, too). When we stepped out of the airport this morning around 6am it was already around 84 F. The thermometer climbs with the sun -- this afternoon should top out around 113. To make sure that we roast, our dorms have no air-conditioning. I figure if I can survive a Minnesota winter then an Indian summer should be the test of my other extreme.
Hopefully we will all be adjusted to the heat, the time change, and the campus by the time the students arrive this weekend. The buildings are primarily made of plain stone, but no fear, the residential staff is already brainstorming ways to make this place more cheery with the help of our students. We have three small buildings, each with their own courtyard, which surround a small quad-like area. Elizabeth has suggested that each dorm invent a flag to hang, and then we can cover our balconies with banners. So far I am a fan, though I admittedly am rather afraid that the sun will melt off any paint...
So far so good with the food, but then again I have only had a small breakfast in the dining hall. I have PB&J to back me up just in case I pine for a good old American classic. As some of you know, I thoroughly enjoy trying Coca-Cola in every country I visit. I added Qatar to the list (which is right next to Saudi Arabia)...it is surprisingly sweet! Italy still takes 1st place in the International Coca-Cola taste test, though. I will update when I try Indian Coke!
For now I'm off to check out the air-conditioned lounge and avoid the zombie cat which stalks around campus.
Friday, May 7, 2010
Leaving on a jet plane...or four
Hi friends! Welcome to the blog which will hopefully keep you all up to date on my adventures in India. As most of you know, I will be working with gifted students from all over India at the Indian Institute of Management. The students will take one three-week intensive course as part of an academic residential program.
We will be living in dorms without air-conditioning. The highs for this time of year are about 105-115 degrees F...that is literally twice the number of degrees it currently is in Minnesota (Minnesota missed the memo about summer). For those of you wondering after the meaning of my blog title, it means "Spirit of Fire" in Hindi. I'm hoping that it's meaning will develop into something more than the extreme heat.
Just a couple more days! Somewhere between four airports I am sure some travel mishap will arise. Last time I flew, security at RDU found a bottle of Elmer's school glue (left in my backpack for a collage project for grad school....yes, a collage for a graduate class. Don't look so surprised). My bags had to be searched and swabbed, and I got a pat down. I wonder what would have happened if I had been carrying more serious glue, like wood glue or fabric glue, or heaven forbid, rubber cement! Needless to say, I will pack my backpack more carefully before I depart on this next adventure.
Stay tuned for my first report from India! For those of you I leave in MN -- I'll try to send you some of that warm air so you can put away the winter coats again.
We will be living in dorms without air-conditioning. The highs for this time of year are about 105-115 degrees F...that is literally twice the number of degrees it currently is in Minnesota (Minnesota missed the memo about summer). For those of you wondering after the meaning of my blog title, it means "Spirit of Fire" in Hindi. I'm hoping that it's meaning will develop into something more than the extreme heat.
Just a couple more days! Somewhere between four airports I am sure some travel mishap will arise. Last time I flew, security at RDU found a bottle of Elmer's school glue (left in my backpack for a collage project for grad school....yes, a collage for a graduate class. Don't look so surprised). My bags had to be searched and swabbed, and I got a pat down. I wonder what would have happened if I had been carrying more serious glue, like wood glue or fabric glue, or heaven forbid, rubber cement! Needless to say, I will pack my backpack more carefully before I depart on this next adventure.
Stay tuned for my first report from India! For those of you I leave in MN -- I'll try to send you some of that warm air so you can put away the winter coats again.
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